Bountiful potato crops always eluded me in previous gardens, but I decided to try again this year in a raised bed. I ordered Carola variety seed potatoes from the Seed Savers Exchange and planted them in April. The vines grew fast. Potato vines are supposed to be buried as they grow, so that only a few inches stick out of the soil at a time. They are expected to produce potatoes on all the buried parts. So about two weeks ago, the plants got tall enough to start the burying process (called “hilling”). I was unprepared, surprised they grew so quickly. I was finally able to source materials, so today I built two 8″ high cedar extensions to contain the extra soil, installed them, and filled them with garden soil and compost. Already, they are so tall that I had to bury 16 inches of the plants! Hopefully I am not too late. I can almost taste these potatoes.
When I first moved here five years ago, I was so excited to have a vegetable garden again. I had been pining for it for years, and even though I really didn’t have time for it, I tilled up a large plot of land the very first spring and planted one. I kinda-sorta kept up with it that first year, even though maintaining ten acres of land was proving to be much harder than I first expected, and my time was limited. But over the next few years, other commitments usurped what little free time I once had, and that garden – which I now call “the old garden” – grew wild. The situation has been really hard to clean up, and I don’t recommend doing this yourself. Without help from my chickens, it might take years to reclaim this as a productive vegetable garden. But despite the mess, three of my original perennials survive to this day. Only one, however, is thriving : sunchokes.
Sunchokes (aka sunroots or Jerusalem artichokes) are a delicious and healthy root vegetable that is native to most of the United States and part of Canada. They are a close relative of the sunflower, which is also native here. They are very hard to get rid of once you have planted them, and they spread. But since they’re a particularly delicious and satisfying food crop, and because they’re native here, I’m ok with that. Even without my help, this plant has out-competed most of the weeds and gradually expanded its territory each year. Although I’ve been working to reclaim the rest of the old garden this year, I’m going to leave the part where sunchokes grow alone until fall. It will be worth the wait to enjoy their delicious harvest.
P.S. The other two surviving perennials are garlic and lemon balm. Both were considerably less bountiful than the sunchokes, so I dug those up and relocated them.
“When the last tree is cut, the last fish is caught, and the last river is polluted; when to breathe the air is sickening, you will realize, too late, that wealth is not in bank accounts and that you can’t eat money.” -Alanis Obomsawin
This is my home, and I love it. Mosquitoes are everywhere, flood waters often interrupt my schedule, and none of the popular crops grow well here. But it’s wonderful. Some of the most exciting, nutritious, delicious food crops are native to this kind of habitat. And if I plant the right things, the flood waters will actually help my crops grow better by providing free fertilizers and no-work irrigation. Some fascinating animals live here too! On many a summer night, I am serenaded to sleep by a world class symphony of frog singers. I’ve met snakes and lizards and herons and eagles and fish and butterflies. It’s a challenging, but very rewarding habitat.
The wetland at Strawberry Moon Farm is awash in the river about four times per year. After each and every flood, the byproducts of modern convenience are left behind in that field. Gallons and gallons of trash float in on the wild currents. If I don’t clean it up, it will float downstream to one of my neighbors during the next storm. It will become someone else’s problem, but no less of one. Large items crash in and crush our small trees: a picnic table, a fire extinguisher, hunting gear, and mounds of agricultural waste. Small items float through and cause harm to our wild friends: plastic wrappers, straws, and bottle caps.
An image of one specific plastic straw became infamous last year. That particular straw was lodged inside the nostril of a sea turtle. Encouragingly, humanity is rallying together to help reduce ocean pollution and protect sea creatures like that turtle.
The straw pictured above was found here, in our wetland, in Midwestern USA. Indiana is not near an ocean, but it is home to more than fifteen species of turtles. Our rivers, streams, and lakes host a myriad of fish, reptiles, and amphibians. Majestic Bald Eagles and stately Blue Herons dive into these fresh waters every day, in attempt to feed themselves and their offspring. The plastic epidemic is not confined to the oceans. Litter is not someone else’s problem.
Feeling outraged or depressed or disillusioned will not change our situation, so let’s not waste our energy. There are simple, specific things we can all do to spark positive change in the world. Start with your own community. Take care of your own trash. Pick up litter where you see it (if you can do so safely). Ask your friends to do the same. Pack out your trash when you go camping or hiking rather than leaving it in the woods. If you can avoid consuming single use plastics, do so. If you can’t, try to dispose of those plastics in a responsible way. Recycle what you can recycle and build ecobricks. Secure the lids on your trash cans so your discarded items don’t blow away. And plant trees. Did you know trees are one of the Earth’s natural filters? Not only do they help clean the water and protect the soil, but they also help us catch our mistakes as they float or fly by. They give us a chance to clean those things up before they float farther downstream.
We Earthlings are dealing with a lot right now, and much of it is beyond our control. Taking responsibility for my own consumption and waste is something I can control. Taking responsibility for yours is within your control. It’s a positive step we can take to make the world a better place. Things that once mattered, still matter. And maybe they matter even more now. Let’s care for each other in this way.
When we look at garden catalogues, almost every plant description mentions “Full Sun”. Almost every common food plant seems to require it, but there are many exciting, delicious, and beneficial crops that prefer shade. That’s important information, because the mature trees and woodlands that are most often responsible for creating that shade are tremendously valuable. If we view our trees as a hindrance to our gardening and farming efforts, then we become more likely to remove them, or to avoid planting them in the first place. When we truly understand the ecosystems trees create, we can enter into a mutually beneficial partnership with them. Furthermore, many of these shade-loving food crops are native to Midwestern USA. When we grow native food plants, we nurture not only ourselves but also the beautiful community of wildlife, birds, butterflies, and other insects that depend on those plants.
A Smattering of Deep Shade Crops:
- Ramps (native)
- Ostrich Ferns aka Fiddleheads (native)
- American Ginseng (native high-value medicinal crop)
- Edible & Medicinal Mushrooms (native and non-native varieties)
- Nuts or fruits from the large trees creating the deep shade (native and non-native)
- Maple Syrup (the best syrup trees (sugar maple & red maple) are both native!)
A Sampler of Woodland Edge Crops (part shade):
- Blackberries (native)
- Black Raspberries (native)
- Red Raspberries (not native)
- Violets (Native violet leaves & flowers are great in salads. Non-native sweet violet flowers are used in perfumes, candies, and flavor syrups.)
- Red Mulberries (Morus Rubra – native. Not to be confused with the more commonly found invasive white mulberry Morus Alba.)
- Grapes (several species are native)
- American Elder (Flowers and berries are used for food and medicine. Native.)
- Spicebush (Bay Laurel relative. Leaves are used for tea, and berries are used like allspice. Native!)
- Sassafras (Bay Laurel relative. Leaves are an important ingredient in gumbo (file).)
- Honeyberry (non-native but non-invasive fruit crop)
- Wild Strawberry (Fragaria virginiana, native)
- Stinging Nettles (The stinging mechanism deactivates when cooked properly, and then they are a delicious and highly nutritious vegetable. Some nettles are not native, but Urtica dioica subsp. gracilis is native!)
Woodland cultivation poses different advantages and different challenges than full sun gardening. Some special considerations include:
- Cleaning up downed trees and limbs after storms
- Maintaining access paths to the planting areas
- Removing invasive species
- Removing poison ivy
- Reducing Mosquitoes
It’s a fascinating topic and we’re just getting started. I look forward to learning more and more about woodland gardening as I gain experience, and sharing that new knowledge with you here. I hope you’ll try a shade crop or two if you have a woodsy spot on your property! And more importantly, I hope you’ll look at trees as garden friends rather than foes.
As the warming sunny days of April enchant us into delusions of summer, many gardens are planted before May. In some lucky years, we get away with it. But nearly as often, a late frost comes to claim our tender plants. Midwestern folk tales call this the Blackberry Winter, because it usually comes around the time blackberries flower. That time is now. And that frost is tonight. The forecast predicts a frigid 26 degrees by tomorrow morning. In this article, I will share five tips you can use to help protect your tender plants from frosts- whether the frost be blackberry, or other.
I like to wait until after Mother’s Day weekend to plant my tomatoes and peppers (unless I plan to protect them), because these plants are very tender and blackberry winters have bitten me before. But my potatoes are already growing in the ground, and although they can withstand light frosts, the young vines can be damaged by temperatures below 29 degrees. I also planted a few cucumbers last week against my better judgement, and they’ll need serious protection tonight. In my cool season garden I have onions, kale, collards, kohlrabi, and cabbage. Those plants should be mostly fine, but 26 degrees is right on the borderline of cabbage’s cold hardiness, so I’ll add a light covering to that bed just to be safe. A quick google search should inform you of the frost tolerances of any other plants you might have in your garden.
Tip #1: Water Well. This strategy is important for all types of plants. Wet soil can retain heat better than dry soil, so by ensuring your soil is well watered before a frost, you can add a layer of protection. I suggest watering before adding any sort of frost covering unless your soil is already moist.
Tip #2: If only light protection is needed, use a fabric covering. You can use an old sheet, or you can purchase floating row cover fabric. Floating row cover fabric is sold specifically for farm and garden purposes, and is usually rated to a specific temperature. Fabric coverings can be draped directly over the plants and anchored to the soil with rocks, bricks, or earth staples.
Tip #3: For more frost protection, I use 6 mil clear plastic sheeting, such as might be found at a hardware store in the vapor barrier section. But if you use a plastic covering, it’s important that the plastic is raised above plants instead of resting directly on them. Use hoops, buckets, or anything else you can find to elevate the plastic above the level of your tallest plant. Plastic is also easily carried off by a strong wind, so make sure it’s weighted down very thoroughly.
Tip #5: Add thermal mass. A great thermal mass material will absorb heat from the sun during the day, and then release that stored heat during cool periods. In a garden situation, water is by far the best and most available thermal mass material. I save empty gallon jugs to fill with water and place throughout my garden for this purpose, but I’ve also used 5 gallon buckets with great results. There’s a product called “Wall O Water” that creates 360 degree water-based thermal mass around a single plant, and the manufacturer claims it will protect a plant down to 16 degrees! I don’t think I’ve ever tried it in weather quite that cold, but I have used these for years and I can say that they’ve handled whatever the weather has thrown at them and they have the benefit of being much more convenient and user-friendly than any of the other protection options. They work from exactly the same principles as the gallon jugs of water though, so don’t feel like you have to go out and buy fancy items just to have a successful garden. For more information about thermal mass, this article is very educational! Note that the water must be placed out during the day to give it a chance to store warmth. In a pinch, if you don’t have time to set them out in advance, you can fill the jugs with very warm water from your tap.
Tip #5: For even more protection, add an extra layer. Have you ever noticed that if you go out into the depths of winter wearing a t-shirt and leggings under a big bulky coat, you actually feel colder than if you had a tight layer of wool thermals under jeans and a lighter coat? Two layers of plastic with an air gap between them will far surpass the protection of a single layer. The air gap can be created with a layer of bubble wrap, or by adding a physical separation like an outer hoop structure. If you also add thermal mass inside, your plants will ultra-protected. That level of protection isn’t needed tonight for our 26 degree cold snap, but it’s a useful strategy that can help you grow plants all winter long.
Gardening has enjoyed increased popularity in recent months. Perhaps because we’re all spending more time in our homes and our yards due to shelter in place rules. Perhaps because many of us have lost our incomes due to economic shutdowns and are trying to reduce our food costs. Perhaps because it’s great therapy during stressful times. Whatever your reason for beginning a garden, welcome to the pastime. I’m glad you’re here. And I want you to succeed, which is why I’m about to share the #1 most important garden success tip I know: grow compost. Compost is the absolute lifeblood, and the foundation of a healthy organic garden. If you have some food scraps and a few spare minutes per day, you can do this. And if you do, you’ll be rewarded with beautiful rich soil that will help your garden succeed. It’s one of nature’s great miracles.
What is compost? It’s a nutrient rich soil amendment that you can make from your unwanted food scraps. Soil loves it, worms love it, and plants love it. To start, you’ll need materials from two categories: “greens” and “browns”. Greens are fresh, moist plant products that could include food scraps, grass clippings, certain manures, and weeds. Browns are dried, dead things like fallen autumn leaves, wood chips, or paper. People have done research on creating the ideal balanced compost pile and there is plenty of literature available on that topic. I don’t measure my compost very carefully though. I just shoot for roughly twice as much brown material as green. If you have too much brown material, the compost process will be very slow. If you have too much green material, the compost will smell and might get very hot. If that happens, just adjust as necessary and keep composting. It will all work out.
Once you have some materials, you’ll need a place to put them. This can be as simple as an open pile in the back yard with no structure whatsoever, or as fancy as a compost tumbler. I’ve tried a number of different composting systems, and they all produce the same compost. The difference is mainly in how tidy they look, and how much effort is required to produce the compost.
The compost tumbler pictured to the right of this paragraph (made by Mantis) is the pièce de résistance of my compost system. I watched Craigslist for years, waiting for it to be listed there at an affordable price. The hand crank design makes it very easy to turn the compost every day. By turning the compost every day, and keeping it moist, compost is finished in just a few weeks.
Between actively managed batches of compost in the tumbler, I store compostable materials in these wire bins as overflow. If I was constantly adding new materials to the tumbler, then the materials added later in the cycle wouldn’t be finished composting at the same time as the materials added in the beginning, meaning that there would always be some whole banana peels in my compost. So I use these wire bins to store the materials in waiting. You can see from the photo that I have quite a backlog of compostables, but I plan to completely catch up now that I’m a full time farmer (aka unemployed…)! Even if I didn’t have the tumbler, I could finish these compostables just as quickly by turning them every day with a pitch fork. But, that would take more free time than I have. Or, I could turn them less often, and they would turn into compost over a longer period of time (maybe several months). Or, I could not turn them at all, and they would still become compost after a few years! Moisture is necessary to the composting process though, so try to water your compost pile during periods of drought. Once per week is enough. It should be moist like your garden soil, but not soggy.
You’ll know your compost is finished with it reduces to at least half its original size, no longer feels hot to the touch, and looks like rich black soil. It should not contain any large recognizable chunks of banana. It should smell neutral and earthy.
Ideas for “Greens” To Use In Your Compost:
- Vegetable peels
- Used Coffee Grounds
- Apple cores
- Banana Peels
- Leftovers nobody wants to eat
- That parsley you bought with good intentions but it got all wilty and gross in the back of your crisper
- Moldy bread
- Livestock manure, or manure from certain herbivorous pets (do your own research on this, not all manures are safe to add)
- Weeds you pulled from your garden (but be sure not to include their seeds)
- Grass clippings
- Unbleached Napkins
- Unbleached Coffee Filters
- Unbleached Paper
- Fallen autumn leaves (preferably shredded)
- Wood Chips (these will take a long time to break down, delaying your compost, but they do work)
Items Generally Recommended Not To Compost:
- Plastic-looking items that say “compostable” on them. These are only compostable if they’re heated first. Industrial composting facilities can handle these types of items, but it’s difficult to manage at home.
- Items that are bleached or dyed. Though I add these to my compost anyway, as long as they make up a tiny percentage of total compost.
- Meat or dairy products. These products can make your compost smell, and possibly attract animals to your compost pile. However, I add them anyway, because I don’t care about those consequences.
- Foods that are very salty or oily. Again, I do this anyway as long as those items constitute a tiny percentage of my total compost. If there’s too much salt in the compost it can harm plants, and oil takes a long time to fully break down. In tiny amounts, I don’t notice any problems.
Life on our home planet looks rather alien right now. Our sense of normalcy has been disrupted by the tiniest of creatures. And right now, like many of you, I find myself at home, newly unemployed, and a little shaken. But even with the stock markets in free fall, nature remains a constant and steadying force. Seedlings still grow towards the light. Hens still lay eggs. Flowers still bloom. And seedlings still outgrow their starter pots.
I didn’t plan this project just because of the recession, or because I’m tightening my own budget due to my recent change in income. I’ve been collecting cans for months with this project in mind, and I’m especially glad of that preparation given the current circumstances. But if you don’t have all the materials shown here, that’s ok! Exercise your creative muscles and think about the materials you do have, and what you could make with them. People make planters from juice cartons, milk jugs, origami newspapers, yogurt cups, and pretty much any container imaginable.
Step 1: Eat the soup, tomatoes, green beans, or whatever is inside of the can. Ideally, you would do this at your leisure. The point is not to eat 16 cans of whatever in one afternoon so you can make this project.
Step 2: Clean the cans in the dishwasher, or in whatever manner you usually clean your dishes. Smooth the cut edge of the can if it is sharp. I have a fancy can opener that cuts a blunt edge, so I didn’t need to take any further action on these cans. However, you could probably use a metal file or maybe even a sanding block to smooth them. Please be careful not to cut yourself on any sharp edges.
Step 3: Drill holes in the bottom of the cans. It is a good idea to wear protective gear during this step, like a dust mask, eye protection, and gloves. It may also be a good idea to clamp the can in place or brace it against something so it doesn’t run away from you when the drilling begins.
Step 4: Prepare your planting mix. Start with a neutral substrate, such as peat. Add a small amount of the worm castings if you have them, or whatever fertilizing ingredients you prefer to use on your plants. If you’re using the worm castings, aim for about 2-4 tablespoons per gallon of potting mix. A little goes a long way, and too much can overwhelm your delicate plants. If your potting mix is dry, rehydrate it before moving on to the next step.
Step 5: Plant something in the cans! If you’re planting a seed, then fill the can almost to the top with soil mix. Pack it down gently, and then plant your seed according to the directions on the seed packet. If you’re transplanting a small plant, then start with just enough soil to cushion the plant inside the can. Place the plant inside, and gently fill in soil around the plant. I labeled mine simply with Sharpie on Masking Tape. Another option could be to make these recycled plant markers.
Step 6: Nurture your plant every day. And, enjoy!
My first grade teacher scheduled one school day per month as “Catch-up and Mustard Day”. Her rationale: everyone gets busy, and consequently the small tasks, like organizing papers, sorting out desks, and turning in past-due assignments, tend to fall by the wayside while more pressing concerns take center stage. One day per month, we dedicate ourselves to catching up on all those supporting tasks that will set up our success in the next phase of life. I’m coming off of a long string of busy months, and I need an entire catch-up and mustard winter.
By some unprecedented miracle, the universe has granted my request. This winter has been soothingly kind. The wind has deferred, the cold has diminished, and the sun shines on us at Strawberry Moon most days. I’ve been granted enough grace to clear the old garden, to build frames for new raised vegetable beds, and to remain in the chickens good graces. If this good fortune holds out, I’ll also be able to repay my planting debt to last year’s saplings before next year’s trees make their claim.
Wishing you good luck and good winter for all your catch-up chores. Spring is coming!
This farm originated with a garden. A craving for the rich taste and the warm memories bound to the tomatoes that my late grandpa used to grow was powerful enough to move me to try growing a seed. The power of that seed was enough to propel me to grow a whole garden of seeds. That garden led to another garden, and that one to yet another. When I didn’t have my own land, I rented space in a community garden. When even community space was unavailable, I filled my balcony with pots of soil. But in an ironic twist, when I finally gained some real land of my own, I found myself much too busy for a garden. Between full time off-farm work with a new longer commute and time spent tending the land, restoring over-farmed soils, caring for animals, and planting trees, there hasn’t been enough of me left over to grow a garden. But our soil is well on a path to healing itself, and we’ve already planted over 1300 trees. It’s time to make time for a garden again!
There are still trees to plant and chores to do, and the commute continues; so it can’t be a fussy garden, or a huge one. In an attempt to maximize the efficiency of my gardening time, I plan to build four raised beds this winter. I’ve never had a raised bed before, but I’m told that they reduce gardening time due to their perfectly mixed, weed-free soil and excellent drainage. I’ll need to have these beds totally done before spring arrives, because spring will require its own set of tasks. But I’ve become a fairly skilled builder, and I think I can tackle this project in the time allotted.
I’m trying another new thing for this garden. I selected all seed varieties that claim to be easy to grow and high yielding. In the past, I’ve gravitated towards specialty heirloom types that have amazing flavor and beautiful colors. These types of plants are very fun to grow, but many of them can be fussy and low yielding. While I look forward to growing those special vegetables again sometime in the future, this year I’m looking for some easy wins. Harvest early. Harvest often. Eat. This year’s seed choices are still heirlooms, but they’ve been selected for productivity over novelty. I’m hoping to grow enough bounty to fill my pantry shelves with canned goods for the winter.
I try really hard to avoid plastic waste. I recycle, I carry reusable utensils in my pockets to avoid consuming single-use flatware, I bring my own reusable bags to the grocery store, and I try to avoid the infamous plastic drinking straws at restaurants. But try as I may, plastic is everywhere. It’s unavoidable for most of us. And much of it is not even recyclable. So what is an eco-loving citizen to do with all those unavoidable plastic wrappers, bubble mailers, old toothbrushes, zip ties, and other small miscellaneous non-recyclable plastics? We could throw them in the trash, but these small, lightweight articles are very likely to blow away and cause harm to water, wetlands, wildlife, and ultimately to ourselves. Since these deadly convenience items persist in our environment for many lifetimes, their cycle of harm repeats on a loop.
The ultimate solution to this problem is too big for any one person to solve completely. We need corporations to refuse to make this stuff. We need scientists to develop better building materials for products. And since so far, the money is on the other side of this argument, we’ll probably need politicians as well. But I do not fit into any of those categories, and likely, neither do you. Nevertheless, we don’t have to participate in this harmful cycle. We can choose a more responsible, constructive second life for the unavoidable plastics that cross our paths. And in the process, we can also build cool, useful stuff that just might make the world a better place.
Enter: the Ecobrick. An Ecobrick is a plastic bottle, packed tightly with wrappers and small plastic items, then sealed with a screw top lid. If you pack the bottle tightly enough, it can become a weight bearing building material, similar to a brick. Even better, the tiny wrappers and other small items stored inside the bottle are effectively imprisoned, thereby prevented from wreaking havoc on the greater ecosystem.
I’ve been packing my own plastic (and some plastics from friends and coworkers) into empty drink bottles for the past 10 months. It takes some time, but I find it meditative and stress-relieving. It’s surprising how many items fit inside one bottle. It can take me multiple weeks to fill one bottle, even when combining my home plastics with those from my office. Someday, eventually, I hope to collect enough of these “bricks” to build a new potting shed in the garden using Ecobricks and cob as the primary building materials. It will probably take a long time to collect enough bricks for this goal, but that’s okay. I view it as a lifelong practice. Or at least, for as long as disposable plastic items remain ubiquitous on our planet.
Let’s Get Started!
There are already really good instructions on how to make an ecobrick from the Global Ecobrick Alliance, so I won’t repeat that here. To start, all you need is a clean and dry drink bottle, and a sturdy, smooth stick that is longer than your bottle and less than half as wide as your bottle opening. You can pack the bottle with plastic items as you encounter them, or store up all your packing plastics throughout the week until you have a free evening to stuff them. I do a mix of both depending on my schedule. Everything that goes into the brick must be mostly clean and totally dry. For example, if I have an empty bag of chips, I might turn it upside down and shake out the crumbs before stuffing it into the bag. If it’s oily inside, I’ll wipe it out with a towel before packing it inside my bottle. If I have an item soiled with significant food residue, I wash that with water and dish soap and then dry it alongside my clean dishes before packing it inside the bottle.
What Can Go Inside The Bottle:
- Empty bags of chips
- Candy bar wrappers
- Drinking straws
- Empty bags of frozen fruits and vegetables
- Cellophane wrap
- Sandwich bags
- Shopping bags
- Twist ties
- Zip ties
- Bubble Mailers
- Discarded toothbrushes
- Crushed up plastic utensils
- Empty bags of coffee
- Tea bag wrappers
- Wine capsules (the colorful plastic seals that cover the cork and bottle neck)
- Lots of other items. If it’s plastic and it’s soft or tiny, it can go inside your brick!
What To Do With Completed Ecobricks:
The Global Ecobrick Alliance has another great article called Building with Ecobricks that is definitely worth reading. The section called Earth Bottle Building describes the cob technique I plan to use for the potting shed. If you decide you don’t have any use for ecobricks but you’re still interested in making some, you could donate them to someone who can use them. We do accept ecobrick donations here at Strawberry Moon Farm, as do some other organizations and individuals. If you know you want to donate your ecobricks, find out in advance what kind of bottle your recipient builds with. It’s important that all the bottles be the same size for effective and aesthetic building, so your bottles will need to match those of the project you’re donating towards. You can look for someone accepting ecobrick donations near you on the GoBrik website. This site also encourages you to log your ecobricks, assign unique serial numbers to them, and share validations within the ecobrick community. Feel free to join the Strawberry Moon Farm community on GoBrik!
I use two types of bottles. The first is the 28 ounce Gatorade bottle. It’s the middle size gatorade that is often sold at gas stations. This one is nice because it is a very sturdy bottle, and it has a wide opening so you can include larger items. The other bottle is the 20 ounce Pepsi bottle (or any other 20 ounce Pepsi product such as Mountain Dew, Dr Pepper, 7-Up, Bubly sparkling water, Aquafina bottled water). This is a flimsier bottle with a narrower opening, and I find it a little harder to stuff than the Gatorade. However, they’re much more common, so if you have trouble finding a 28 ounce Gatorade bottle, this might be a great option for you. Whichever bottle you choose, happy bricking!